We made our way to the Tufa Dams which are quite remarkable – limestone formations that look for all the world like manmade concrete dams made by someone on LSD! We pressed on to the Calcite Flow – how strange to see a petrified WHITE waterfall! Again the rock formations (stromolotites) had to be seen to be believed. We continued down the v Victoria Highway and we stopped to air up and have morning tea. Unfortunately Val and John got a leaky radiator so we made the decision to hightail it to Kununurra to get it fixed or replaced in the worst case scenario.

That meant eating or disposing of all our fruit and vegetables as we crossed over the Northern Territory Western Australia border and by the time we got there we had eaten so much we were bloated.

Meanwhile we had our own problems with overheating and Allan decided to remove the Lifeforce lamps from the bull-bar in case it was an airflow issue. That helped the situation but Allan is going into town tomorrow to get advice on restricted airflow due to the position of the winch which is mounted just behind the bull-bar. He plans to do an oil change and minor service as we have travelled over 5,000 kilometers since leaving Canberra.

The drive from the Bullitta Stock Route to Kununurra was lovely – boab trees, flowering wattle, orange flowering Grevillea, fabulous rock formations and saw toothed hills silhouetted against the sun.

We passed through the checkpoint without a hitch and arrived at the Kona Caravan Park in time to set up camp and remove John’s radiator, run him into town and have a couple of drinks – all before dinner. Due to the time difference – one and a half hours – I was ready for bed at 7.30pm! The plan is to stay here at least two nights and then play it by ear.

Thursday 12/06/2008 Day 16

John was so lucky because his radiator was beyond repair and by some miracle they had a replacement – a bit bashed – but a manna from heaven. John got it fitted before lunchtime and plans to take it for a test run this afternoon. This is a lovely campsite – right on the lake but the downside is that it is inhabited by freshwater crocodiles and sandflies. The swimming pool is cold but very welcome when you are hot, dusty and sweaty.

Friday 13/06/08 Day 17

Yesterday was a very welcome rest day – we have been constantly on the go for over two weeks and tempers are beginning to flare. Allan did a high pressure clean of the radiator yesterday and this morning went off to get an oil change. I packed the tent and then typed my notes ready to upload to the ‘blog’.

I sat in an internet cafe and worked out how to upload photos but once I had answered my emails, checked facebook and messed around with the blog ,one and a half hours had flown by. I sat waiting for Allan but made good use of the time  typing my notes. We left for Keep River National Park and arrived to discover some parts were closed due to flood damage and others for cultural reasons. Still we did camp overnight and everyone went for a walk later that afternoon but I am suffering badly from the heat and stayed behind – once again making good use of my time typing these notes. That evening we had more computer problems but managed to download some of the video footage taken and having a resident computer expert is definitely a plus.

Saturday 14/06/08 Day 18

Due to the change in time-zones everyone’s body clock saw them up between 5.30 – 6am and so we set off very early and made our way to another camp in the Keep River National Park where we went on a walk through some awesome rock formations the scenery is magnificent – every bit as spectacular as the Blue Mountains but not as crowded. We headed off down the Duncan Road which was mostly just a road but our aim is the Bungle Bungles (Purnululu) so the quickest way suits us. We camped by a river but unfortunately I didn’t enjoy it much because of the heat initially and then fear of crocodiles and getting bitten to death by sandflies and mosquitoes. I have around 100 bites on my left buttock and several others all over my body this is despite covering myself in insect repellent religiously – blasted sandflies – I hate them with a passion.

 

You have to hand it to the pioneers who populated this vast landscape – so many things could and did go wrong. There were so many dangers – crocodiles, mosquitoes, venomous spiders and snakes.  Add to all those – accidents, illness and childbirth – it’s a wonder anyone survived,

We are headed for Marella Gorge today and arrived early to find our intended camp-site occupied! We made ourselves known and stayed chatting to Bruce, Kay and Glenda the CEO, Administrator and Nurse (respectively) of a local aboriginal community. They readily spoke of their experiences and the reality of trying to help indigenous people. I began to wonder why they persisted as they painted such a grim picture.

Allan and I took off by ourselves exploring the natural beauty of the gorge. Marella Gorge has to be the best kept secret – it has the most spectacular chasms, and water-pools, lots of fish and birds we even saw crocodiles in the distance. On our return to the camp-site we had to make our way through Spinifex grass which is savage on exposed skin and stings for ages. There is an old aboriginal saying which goes something like this “the sting of the Spinifex is no longer painful once it gets to know you”! I don’t know that it is true but after a while you do get used to it and don’t complain as much!

Despite the camp being right next to the water we decided to go exploring and look for a better place to swim. This would be a test of nerves as we knew there were freshwater crocodiles in the water but we found a lovely pool which seemed to be free of crocodiles and all had a quick dip just to cool down.

That night we did some crocodile spotting by the light of Jim’s powerful torch. When you shine a light in their eyes they glow like the cats eyes in the road – quite eerie but kinda cute as well.

Monday 16/6/2008 Day 20

We spent an hour showing the others the chasms and water-pool Allan and I had explored yesterday – then sadly (because it is so beautiful) we headed off down the Duncan Road once more.

We stopped at Sawpit Gorge which was almost as spectacular as Marella. Allan decided to climb a hill just for the exercise! We then crossed to the other side of the road to Palm Springs Gorge but it was a little disappointing. Before lunch Val took us on a wild goose chase! She suggested taking a side track to the Ruby Queen Mine (abandoned) but it turned into an adventure as the road had been washed away in some places. We made a particularly difficult crossing over a creek where the road was partially washed away but almost immediately came across another very difficult patch so decided to retrace our steps.

Meanwhile Jim and Jane decided not to come with us (a wise decision considering the trailer) but to try a different route which turned out to be a dead end – we all had fun trying though J

We lunched at the side of the road – we seem to be making a habit of it – and then made our way to Old Halls Creek which is now in ruins. The old Post Office is now contained under a tin roof surrounded by a chain link fence to protect it from the elements, animals and humans. Built from ant-hills and Spinifex grass and complete with two elaborate fireplaces it was just awesome to think of the effort that must have gone into building such a strange monument to the pioneering days.

The cemetery was a sad, but fascinating place. Of all the burials only two were women and one girl. The first burial was a boy named Vivian and he was only 3 months old – that made me really sad.

We carried on to Halls Creek for fuel and bread but didn’t linger. That night we camped at Little Panton River camp-site and even had time to do a little bird-spotting.

Tuesday 17/06/2008 Day 21

We arrived mid-morning at Purnululu National Park – what a wondrous place! I doubt any photos can do justice to the magnificent gorges and rock formations we have seen. We visited Echidna Gorge and the lookout after setting up camp and tried to catch the sun setting over the domes later that day. We were unlucky because a cloud came over just at the last minute and the moment was lost. The setting sun makes the Bungles (Purnululu) glow like the dying embers of a fire – I hope we manage to capture the colours – they are so incredibly RED.

Wednesday 18/06/2008 Day 22

Very early start today – on the road by 7.20am. It’s hard to believe Allan is getting up so early and willingly to boot! We headed to the south end of the NP and did the ‘Domes’ walk, explored Piccaninny Lookout and then walked through Cathedral Gorge – no chance of survival if you happened to be in there during an earthquake. The rocks are perched precariously all along the cliff-tops and you wonder when one is going to topple just as you are walking beneath it LOL!

It was good to do the walks in the morning when it is so much cooler, there are fewer tourists around and the light is at its best up until just after lunch. It also meant we had the whole afternoon to laze around but I made a shopping list for when we get to Kununurra as it is the last supermarket or grocery store for four weeks once we leave there.

We tried once more to capture the sunset and did get some great pictures including one of the moonrise.

Thursday 19/06/2008 Day 23

I thought we had an early start yesterday! Today we were on the road by 6.10am because we wanted to do the Mini Palms walk before we headed off to Kununurra.

Mini Palms Gorge was very different to the other gorges we have seen – more rock falls, more boulders to climb over, more vegetation and this time we weren’t allowed down into the amphitheatre like Cathedral Gorge.

We returned to camp to put the camper back on the truck and the others had gone ahead as planned.

During our visit to Purnululu what amazed Allan and I the most were the three motorbikes we saw in the NP – one touring bike (alone) and two off-road bikes with a support vehicle. The guy on the tourer had to have been insane given the road conditions and the depth of the water in some of the creeks. We found out from a couple (Cairns) who had spoken to the biker the night before that he had no idea what the road was like and came off in the worst of the creek crossings. He had decided not to stay and explore but to take the whole day making his way out of the park. He was going to unpack his gear and carry it over every creek crossing (and there were heaps), walk his bike across, then re-pack his gear and ride until the next creek crossing. We reckoned he would be lucky to get to the main track (fifty three kilometres away,) in a day, at that rate LOL!

We saw a strange looking car – it looked as if a child had spray-painted this car –with reddish mud coloured paint and standing in front given it a couple of blasts of the spray gun then got tired and never finished the job. I guess he must have gone through one of the muddier creek crossings a little too quickly! LOL! The road into the Bungles is a little challenging.

We had a leisurely drive up the Great Northern Highway (‘blacktop’) and just stopped at the side of the road for lunch (I know). We saw a rock on the way into Kununurra that looked just like King Kong and we also saw boab trees, and a camel train doing a charity walk to Melbourne in aid of the local children’s hospital.

We arrived at the camp only a couple of hours after the others and set about doing the washing and setting up camp. I left the washing on the line overnight – it was a wonder it didn’t blow away it was so windy – it was very dry the next morning!

Troopie is in trouble again – the radiator nearly blew up – it got so hot.

Friday 20/06/2008 Day 24

We spent the next day getting organised for the next four weeks as we will not have access to fuel, food or water. We also managed to send some emails and access the blog. On our return to camp there was more bad news. Troopie is in serious trouble – water in the engine. This could possibly take a week to fix! So plan B has been put into operation – not that we had a plan B! Allan and I decided to leave on Sunday for a couple of days exploring by ourselves. Allan went to the sausage sizzle (free) organised by the camp – he who should avoid fat like the plague!

Saturday 21/06/2008 Day 25

Jim and Jane went on an all day excursion – first sailing on Lake Kununurra – then Lake Argyle. Val, John,  Allan and myself went on a half day excursion down Lake Kununurra (Ord River). There are three very distance sections evident:

·         The lake – which was windy today so quite cool and choppy – lots of waterbirds, very scenic

·         The gorge – magnificent cliffs, crocodiles, rock wallabies, pelicans and more waterbirds

·         The Ord River – very fast moving due to the water being released from Lake Argyle into the hydroelectric plants, very shallow in parts. The shallowness necessitated the boat going fast enough to aquaplane over the water around some very tight bends with a risk of suddenly coming across a canoeist.

We were told you can go on a three day canoeing safari when the company will set up camp and leave food at two locations for an overnight stay and arrange all meals and fluids. I’m sure it would be really hard work but lots of fun – maybe next year LOL!

It was a very pleasant relaxing day but Allan and I spent the rest of it running around like mad chooks trying to get organised for our morning departure.

Sunday 22/06/2008 Day 26

We set off bright and early – groan – and made our way to Ivanhoe Crossing. This looked quite daunting with the Lower Ord River teeming over the weir. We discovered – by watching other vehicles crossing – that it wasn’t awfully deep but once we were out in the middle it was evident the force of the water was enough to push us over the edge. It wasn’t really so difficult but fear of the unknown (only someone suicidal would have walked through a crocodile infested river to test the depth of water) is a great leveller.

We made our way along Parry Creek Road making a beeline for the Marlgu Billabong (lake) where the bird-life is amazing. So many different species of waterbirds – I was totally amazed. Once I could drag myself away we made our way back to the Parry Creek Farm having decided we would be back at the billabong very early the next morning to watch the birds. We spent a leisurely afternoon – very much needed and yet again had an early night.

Monday 23/06/2008 Day 27

As promised we were packed and ready to go by 6am, arriving just after to see hundreds and hundreds of birds at the Marlgu billabong – some still sleeping! Some of those sighted include: Green Pygmy Goose, Purple Swamphen, Eurasian Coot, Striated Heron, Brolga, Australasian Grebe, Radjah Shelduck,  and Plumed Whistling Duck – to mention a few.

Sadly I had to tear myself away and we went back to camp for a shower. We were questioned by the manager as they have people just dropping in from outside for a shower or toilet – bold as brass!

The previous evening we only spotted one crocodile  in the creek after going for a long walk and talking to the manager’s parents who thought they needed to rescue us from our long dusty walk but I was merely filming their dogs  running hell for leather after  their vehicle!

We then travelled over the flood plain taking a short cut to Wyndham – a bit exciting in places – the sand/salt was very soft and deep in places and we had visions of being bogged – not a tree in sight, the tide coming in bringing with it crocodiles. Scary! We would have at least needed a tree to anchor the winch to pull us out if we had got bogged.

We visited the Port of Wyndham, the Dreamtime Statues, Big Croc and the Five Rivers Lookout which has spectacular views over the Ord, King, Forrest, Durack and Pentecost Rivers. Allan thought he had lost me at one stage! We talked about doing the loop walk around the lookout and he mentioned talking to some people who had just arrived on a tour bus. I went to the edge to do some filming and after what seemed like ages remembered the promised walk. When I turned around Allan was nowhere to be seen. So after scouring around looking for him I thought he must have gone on ahead and scurried after him. One of the tricks Allan pulls is to hide from me taking photos and then jumps out to scare me to death – so any moment I expected him to leap from behind a convenient rock or tree. As I got further along it seemed he was way ahead of me so I picked up my pace and began calling to him. It soon became apparent that I wasn’t going to catch him so I plodded on thinking it couldn’t be too much further. It was a much longer walk than I had anticipated but the views were a good compensation for the extra exercise.

On my return Allan had just returned after looking for me down the hill. As it turned out he had set out walking the opposite way to me but only went a short distance and turned back. When he couldn’t find me he went walking down the hill but of course didn’t find me. On his way back up the hill he got ‘picked up’ by Linda – and her dog Rex. More about Linda and Rex later!

We visited the famous Prison Boab Tree by the King River and Allan climbed inside for a photo. The river looked just like melted chocolate and the banks like chocolate coated marshmallows. To our surprise Jim and Jane turned up and we caught up on the news about John and Val.

We met Jim and Jane again further along when we were looking at some aboriginal rock paintings of animals and the Wandjina spirit ancestors, near Moochalabra Dam.

We then discovered the Diggers Rest, which was our intended route, was closed which meant taking a detour along the Kurunjie Track which is a very difficult track and took forever to cross the property (Diggers Rest) through which it went. We were very conscious of time running out as  the sun was rapidly setting and we had to set up camp which we prefer to do while it’s still light enough to see what we are doing. Unfortunately it is illegal to camp anywhere along the Kurunjie but we found a spot just near the Gibb River Road Pentecost River Crossing, quickly set up camp, had dinner and went to bed worrying about crocodiles LOL!

Tuesday 24/06/2008 Day 28

We had a pleasant morning and were visited by Chris, Helena, Jacque and Anne who were visiting from France. They stopped to admire our camper – the Heaslip – and we all got chatting like old friends. We met Helena and Chris who commute between Nice and Sydney, several times that day in different locations and we came across the people we met from Rivett and Linda plus dog (I think Linda was looking for husband number two and thought Allan was a good candidate until she realised he was spoken for LOL! We also chatted to a young couple with a Heaslip trailer at the lookout near Home Valley Station.

Crossing the Pentecost was fun – we didn’t know if it was crocodile infested  or how deep the water was so waited until a couple of other vehicles went though and then followed in their  tyre-prints and safely crossed to the other side.

We then decided to return to Kununurra to catch up with John and Val and on the way called into reception at Emma Gorge which is owned by El Questro. The area was a veritable oasis in the midst of very dry, rocky terrain.

Allan wanted to check if his inverter had arrived at Auto One. He had bought one just before we left Kununurra but it was faulty and they promised to replace it – but it hadn’t arrived from the suppliers so we toddled off to catch up with John and Val at the Kona Caravan Site. Troopie only needs a new head gasket and will most likely be ready on Friday – the gasket was being flown up from Melbourne. Sigh of relief!

We decided to return to El Questro as John and Val had already decided they really didn’t want to go there so it was a good opportunity for us while they are out of action.

It was late when we set off and consequently very late by the time we were approaching El Questro. We ended up camping by the Pentecost again and made our way to El Questro the following morning at a lovely leisurely pace.

Wednesday 25/06/2008 Day 29

We set up camp at El Questro, made a picnic lunch and set out to explore Emma Gorge. What a gorgeous place, despite the strenuous scramble/walk over rocks and boulders it was very much worth the effort. I hope the photos do it justice. The photos won’t show how cold the water was – we discovered the bottom pool was warm in comparison to the top pool due to the hot spring which feeds it. Allan braved the cold but not me – I’ve got more sense LOL!

We also drove around Tier Gorge and Matteo Rock but it was boring after the splendour of Emma Gorge.

Jim and Jane wandered over from their private camp along the river to tell us to expect Val and John on Friday or Saturday depending on the time they pick Troopie up from the mechanic.

The camp is quite noisy – lots of people, young kids, crying babies and a loud country band. Thankfully they didn’t play till very late!

I’m sitting here waiting for the washing to finish, the camera and laptop to charge up and using the time to bring my diary up-to-date before going to bed.

Tomorrow we are off to El Questro Gorge which I understand is an arduous walk.

Thursday 26/06/2008 Day 30

I was a little tired today and consequently we didn’t get going until 10.30am. We made another picnic lunch, took the essentials such as swimmers, water, cameras and headed up El Questro Gorge – MAGNIFICENT – another palm filled oasis – a bit challenging scrambling over huge boulders crossing the creek several times and wading through deep pools but very worth the effort to reach the deep blue pool and cascading waterfall at the head of the gorge.

The walk was reported as taking 4-5 hours without a swim – we took 4 hours with a swim not bad for two old crumblies!

Back at camp I was bird-watching and suddenly heard something or someone crashing through the undergrowth – then a young bull appeared. He looked at me – I looked at him – he sauntered off – Phew!

Friday 27/06/2008 Day 31

Once again we got up early but at least we had a quick slice of toast and marmalade, made with fresh bread baked the night before – a resoundingly successful first effort in the camp oven on the camp fire! I’m quite proud of myself. We got up early to beat the crowds to Zebeedee Springs but heaps of people had obviously had the same idea and the place was packed. Still – we had a dip in lovely warm water – another wonderful oasis but with a twist – leeches.

After packing up camp we headed off for the lookout at the Home Valley Station just across the Pentecost River overlooking the Cockburn Ranges. The exhaust bracket has come loose so Allan is under the car and some kind Samaritan here at the lookout gave us a washer, nut and bolt! Sitting here only reinforces what a harsh land Australia can be – very rocky terrain, sparse vegetation and this goes on for miles and miles and miles as far as the eye can see but if I only  had three words to describe the Kimberley they would be – special, colourful and alive!

We arrived at Ellenbrae Homestead on the Gibb River Road just after lunch – the manager is a guy from Canberra – with a Heaslip! Jim and Jane arrived soon after. John and Val are expected to join us tomorrow. Although we are staying in a bush camp at least we don’t have to dig a hole 50 metres away and place the toilet seat frame over the hole!!! It was especially scary using the bush toilet at night with a chance of stumbling on a crocodile.

Saturday 28/06/2008 Day 32

We spent a quiet day doing repairs, cleaning, washing, paddling, taking photos of wildflowers and trying to spot birds. John and Val arrived around 4pm and it was a very cheerful reunion. Jane cooked some lemonade scones which we ate around the camp-fire while catching up on all the news.

Sunday 29/06/2008 Day 33

Back to the early starts! On the road before 8.30am, off to the King Edward River turnoff to camp for a night before going up to the Mitchell Plateau and the Mitchell Falls (the ‘Falls’). Allan is strangely excited and feels we are setting out on a big adventure!

On the way we stopped at Drysdale River Station for fuel and I bought a loaf and a small bottle of Sarsaparilla for $8.50 – phew! It was funny to see the public telephone is kept in an old fridge and the pictures of the Homestead in the 2000 flood were quite sobering.

On the road again we crossed numerous creeks some deeper than others but none of them in the least bit scary. The road was not as bad as we had anticipated and having Val with us made an otherwise boring trip a little more interesting – pays to have a botanist with you!

We were lucky to see two Brolgas ducking, bobbing and dancing – such lovely graceful birds.

We reached camp, threw on our bathers and rushed to find a cool pool – sitting in the car in the late afternoon sun makes you very hot. The water felt freezing until our body heat adjusted then no-one wanted to leave it was so nice.

On the way in to Camp One our group assisted two Ladies from Switzerland who hired a ‘Britz’ four-wheel -drive camper-van and were unsure of their ability and the way in to this very popular camp.

That night we discussed our plans for the next few days as Alan and I decided we were definitely going up to Kalumburu.

Monday 30/06/2008 Day 34

I’m sitting about 200 metres from the ocean at Honeymoon Bay  which is just north of Kalumburu on the northern most accessible point of Western Australia writing my diary. Allan is fishing from the rocks, the sun is setting and I’m only wearing panties because it’s so HOT! It would be lovely to go for a swim – the water looks so inviting and cool but the fear of crocodiles (Salties) keeps me here – ever alert!

Not so Allan – he has already had a quick dip and done some beach casting – with no success L

This has to be one of the most beautiful beaches – so peaceful, remote, warm and clean – bliss!

We visited the township which is a dry community and is an excellent example of how beneficial to the community it is when there is absolutely no alcohol. This is such a remote community, access to alcohol is nigh on impossible for locals. I went on the internet for ages, down-loading emails and adding to the blog. This was in the local corporation offices – $5 for as long as you want – great value. Tomorrow we will have a look around before meeting the rest of the group at the Mitchell Falls campsite.

 That evening after dinner Allan and I sat counting the stars and contemplating the universe. Our individual record so far is four shooting stars in one night. There are so many stars it’s incredible – unlike England where – if it’s not cloudy – you can clearly distinguish the constellations – it is certainly more difficult in Australia as the picture is complicated with millions more stars.

Alan only managed to catch some bait that evening but was happy for a first attempt and contemplating using it for bait in the morning.

It was a shame because the fish were almost leaping out of the water in their hundreds but it just wasn’t safe enough – not that we have seen any crocodiles or evidence of any – just lots of tracks of birds, lizards and dingoes but no crocodiles – thank heavens.

I will definitely be back to Honeymoon Bay.

Tuesday 1/7/2008 Day 35

Allan was on the beach fishing at 7am! But no luck! He left his improvised fishing rod with the line cast and carried on with repairs and maintenance to the truck while I typed my diary. It was such a pleasant place, such a relaxing start to the day. We explored Pago but the ruins were a disappointment – Gertrude Morgan -the owner was away fishing so we couldn’t really go much further as we felt we were trespassing. We dropped our rubbish at the tip (Allan was suffering withdrawal symptoms from being away from Revolve for so long) LOL!

We then made our way back to Kalumburu making a quick stop at a pretty gorge with what appeared to be flying fish!!!

Before moving on I downloaded more stuff to the blog while Allan did a few more running repairs to the truck and played with the car computer. We wanted to go into the museum but unfortunately it was closed. We left town after taking a photo of the Kalumburu welcome sign with my Coffee Guru mug – I’ll donate the mug and photo to the manager at Coffee Guru in Woden. We made good time to Mitchell Falls Camp-site but it’s a wonder our teeth didn’t fall out the road was so badly corrugated it nearly shook the car to bits. As soon as we arrived we donned our bathers and headed straight for the nearest swimming hole – Bliss! I washed as best I could without soap or shampoo but I felt so much cleaner and refreshed. We sat around the camp-fire recounting our experiences of the trip to Kalumburu – the donkeys, the forklift truck which fell over, Les French at Honeymoon Bay, the fishing, the beach shack, the stars, the turquoise blue water, the gasoline drums from WW2. Tomorrow we are walking to the ‘‘Falls’ – can’t wait.

Wednesday 2/7/2008 Day 36

We made an early start to the day to ensure we walked to the ‘Falls’ in the coolest part of the day. We had to wait while the others got weighed for their return by helicopter. I guess if their combined weight had been too much they would have had to leave someone behind! LOL!

The whole walk from the camp-site to the ‘Falls’ is 3.3k which the Rangers advise takes approximately three hours. It took us three and a half hours there because we looked at everything leaving no stone un-turned but it only took us three quarters of an hour to get back to camp!

The first 0.8k took us to Little Mertons Falls  and our first swimming hole – bliss – we even went behind the falls and saw all the fascinating rock paintings including some Bradshaw’s (Gwion), and extinct Thylacine (giant kangaroo).

The next 2k took us through a tropical woodland, Spinifex plateau and a Monsoon Vine thicket area to another rock painting site over the opposite side of the river and then to the end of the Mertons Gorge.

 Then we only had another 500m to get to the ‘Falls’ and I was absolutely dumbstruck – the ‘Falls’ are breathtaking they are so spectacular, awesome, wondrous. We took our time exploring and taking hundreds of pictures before having a picnic lunch by the river after having a cooling dip. Poor Val got over-heated and needed to cool down urgently. All too soon it was time for the others to leave and they were blown away by the experience and the views of the ‘Falls’ from the helicopter. Allan and I had another dip and took more photos – we then headed back to camp – retracing our steps but only stopping for a quick cool off in the many pools – the others were surprised to see us back so soon. We had another dip and basically just lazed around for the rest of the day.

Thursday 3/7/2008 Day 37

We have spent today going from the Mitchell Plateau to Barnett River Gorge via the Drysdale River Homestead – 150k over a terribly corrugated and rutted track. The track from the plateau to the King Edward River turnoff was particularly bad.

There was much discussion around the camp-fire (under a Boab tree) that night deciding on our itinerary for the next few days. We have decided to fuel up at the Mt. Barnett road-house in the morning then take a look at the Barnett River Gorge, spend the night at Mount Elizabeth Station then continue along the Munja Track to Walcott Inlet the following day. Val, Jane and I can’t understand the attraction of the Munja Track as it is basically just a challenging 4WD track with not much to see and even less to do – no swimming holes either. Given the state of Troopie we questioned the wisdom of attempting the track but…

Before dinner that night in sheer desperation I heated some river water to wash my hair – it has never been so dirty in all my life!

Friday 4/7/2008 Day 38

We did have a brief look at the Barnett River Gorge which is pretty spectacular but after Mitchell Falls seemed ordinary.

The countryside is fairly boring although the creeks are often quite pretty with crystal clear water, sandy banks, colourful lilies and shady spots for lunch or tea breaks. Everyone fuelled up at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse and then back-tracked to Mount Elizabeth Station. Heaven on a stick – hot showers and flushing toilets!

Allan and I went for a 4k walk but left it a little late and arrived back well after the sun had set – a bit scary as we could have lost our way in the dark. I was exhausted and in bed before 8am with earplugs insitu because I didn’t want to be wakened early by the crows and peacocks!

 

We were on the road by 7am and all exploring the Old Ord River Homestead. Someone has recently made an attempt to restore one of the buildings but a fire destroyed part of the roof and it would appear that no work has been completed since then.